Campag Power Torque bearing removal

by hubba   November 30, 2012  

Before I start, NB I am referring to Campag Power Torque, not their Ultra Torque system.

Has anyone got experience of fully servicing a Campag power torque BB/chainset? I intend to get the Park CBP3 and CBP5 tools, and can see how to use them to remove the chainset and drive-side bearing. However, removing the non-drive side bearing from the cup seems a bit of a mystery! The only ref I have found so far is from the Park website:

"The left side bearing is pressed into the cup. It is Campagnolo's intention that this entire cup with bearing should be replaced when bearing is worn out."

If this is the case, it doesn't seem too helpful a design as I will need to buy more than just a pair of bearings...has anyone had experience of successfully replacing the bearing from the non-drive cup?


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Can't help you but I've just bought, but not yet installed, a Centaur groupset, complete with Power Torque bottom bracket.

I'll be watching your thread with interest.


mike the bike's picture

posted by mike the bike [89 posts]
1st December 2012 - 14:06

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erm i run power torque (veloce) from what i have gathered the one on the crank can be changed relatively easily. the one in the cup is a bin and buy affair. the bottom brackets can be had for £15/20 if you gave some effort you probably could remove it but i reckon you would only save £5-6 over buying new.

incidentally mine is on my winter bike and going strong! due to our 'summer' i my winter bike has done around 3500 miles since the campag went on and it runs perfectly so its up to the job.

tip for crank removal, buy a gear puller and stick 2 coins in where the massive bolt comes out (think i used 2 foreign coins) saves on pricey park/campag tools.


posted by russyparkin [543 posts]
1st December 2012 - 14:14

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Good thinking Russ. I've already figured out that my small puller ( bought years ago for car use ) will do the job if I grind the ends down to size.

But to be honest, I don't anticipate having to replace the bearings for at least ten years. This will be my new "best bike" and will lead a relatively sheltered life.


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posted by mike the bike [89 posts]
1st December 2012 - 14:23

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Thanks for your comments Mike and Russ.

The installation was pretty straightforward Mike. I got a 14mm allen type sump drain plug socket to fit on my torque wrench for the big securing bolt and fitted the cups with a standard 16 notch BB tool. In retrospect I would have got the Campag socket, which from reviews is a really good fit, and allows you to torque the cups up properly (I was too impatient to get my new bike built!)

Good to know you are getting decent mileage out of your BB Russ. Mine has done around 1500 miles so the bearings don't need replacing yet...however I read somewhere else it is a good idea to pull the LH crank off now and again or it can seize on if left too long. I've got the carbon cranks so I will probably still get a purpose designed puller like the Park one, as I don't have an old one knocking around that I can butcher on the grinder. The Park tools also come with extra bits to make drive-side bearing removal/replacement look easy. With Crimbo looming I can at least give the missus a good pressie idea (lucky me!)

As far as I can tell the replacement Power Torque bearing set (FC-AT012) contains 2 bearings, which would imply you should be able to replace the RH and LH side. It would be annoying if you have to buy this at around £20 just to replace the one pressed onto the chainset, as well as get a pair of BB cups (£15 to £20 as you say) just for the pressed-in non-drive side. Oh well, it wouldn't be the first time the Campag way of doing things has annoyed me! I usually forgive them though as the end product of their labours is generally so good. In this case I will definitely forgive them if the bearings last me 10 years!

cheers, Jem

The older I get, the faster I was

posted by hubba [6 posts]
1st December 2012 - 17:20

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