Since I am more or less new to the ever evolving bicycle technologies, I would be grateful if somebody could clear up some things. Well here is the deal. I intend to buy a bicycle, a road bike, drop bars etc. but the most puzzling part for me are the tires. My rides will definitely be on tarmac but not so clean and without potholes, so there are debris present almost on every kilometer of the road here (Bosnia and Herzegovina).
While riding somewhat older bikes with non-racing tires punctures happened, ok it happens to everyone now and then. I would really love to ride a bike with "raceier" tires because of speed and performance but what's the use if they will be punctured often. Then I've seen cyclocross bicycles with tires that are more rigid when you look at it but are not really for kilometer-eating road stages. Are they less prone to puncture and what are those new technologies implemented to reduce puncturing? Is the situation today really that better than the past?
Sorry for the long post, hope someone will make sense out of it.



the_mikey [159 posts] 4 years ago

I use 700x25c continental gatorskin tyres, these help me bounce across most potholes and rough surfaces, although they're not the lightest, they're a comfortable ride.

Simon E [2723 posts] 4 years ago

Larger volume tyres handle rough surfaces better than 23mm racy tyres and it is widely recognised now that a wider tyre can roll faster than the narrow ones:


It depends what brands are available where you are and the size you wish to use. I like Bontrager Race Lite Hardcase, which are tough, roll well and are available here in 700c sizes up to 32mm. Otherwise the Gatorskins have lots of fans. Schwalbe Durano and Durano Plus are lighter and faster rolling than their heftier Marathon range. Whatever you buy will strike some kind of compromise between protection and weight/rolling resistance.

nudger [4 posts] 4 years ago

I can recommend Specialised Armadillo All Condition tyres - I've had 7 years of puncture free riding (25mm size) with a puncture every month on the previous tyres. They're a little harsher to ride on than the stock tyres but nothing too much to worry about.

Even better than those - I am loving these Michelin Krylion Carbon tyres (23mm) on the road bike. Really smooth and fast and a pleasure to ride on and they also seem really tough..

Hope you enjoy whatever you choose - you will always find somebody who swears by a particular tyre and someone else who detests it because they got punctures on them. So just pick a tough 'winter' tyre from a reputable brand and happy riding...

roly [41 posts] 4 years ago

Plus one on krylions. The only tyre that survives the winter commute AND is fast

Vic Brown [43 posts] 4 years ago

+2 on the Krylions, mine are well into their 2nd winter and still looking in good condition and no punctures yet.

cborrman [85 posts] 4 years ago

I have used continental GP4000S on the glass and pothole covered road to richmond park and some dodgy goat tracks at the top of spanish mountains. Vectran is the best anti-puncture and lightest protection I have seen.

The closest I came to a puncture was when I was knackered after a way too long a climb with sections of 30% and so I thrashed the bike without braking where i normally would down a stone and pothole strewn path back down to Lanestosa and a large stone managed to break a 2mm hole in side of the tyre where there is no protection. It did not actually then even puncture, but 10 mins later left in the 30'C sun the superlight 50g innertube burst through the hole, as did the replacement tube 10 mins after the change. A €5 note did the trick and is still there 6 months later  1 A stronger inner tube would probably have been ok?

If you look here:


you can see the protection difference between gatorskin (tread and sidewall) and gp4000s (tread only), bear in mind the gatorskin uses kevlar vs lighter, stronger vectran on gp4000s. the GP4000s + supersonic conti tubes is the lightest, supplest and lowest resistance clincher+tube set-up I know and is close to conti competition tubulars or the hutchison tubeless fusion (with sealant) I also use in terms of speed + protection, but with none of the hassle

if the gp4000s breaks, and if so would probably be the back one??? you can always upgrade to gatorskin on the back or both, but I would be surprised...