Wheel build

Building wheels isn't very hard and is actually quite therapeutic.

I'd recommend double checking that you've got the correct spoke lengths for your hub/rim combination. Trying to true a wheel when the spokes are just running out of thread is a chore and definitely not recommended.

For your first wheel, it's best to stick to a standard 3-cross pattern and triple-check that you've got the spokes/rim/hub orientated correctly as it's a pain when you've almost finished and spot a mistake.

Try to build the wheel with a consistent tension e.g. thread all the nipples with the same number of turns. This makes truing the wheel a lot simpler as it'll be more or less radially true so you can then focus on lateral truing.

If you don't have access to a truing stand, it is quite possible to true a wheel in situ by squinting at the brake pads, but it won't be as accurate.

Another recommendation for the Musson book here. Lays out very clearly what you need to do. I've put together a number of wheels using it, and have happily cycled many miles on them: there's a lot of satisfaction in riding on a pair of wheels that you've built yourself. It's quite an enjoyable task, too.

I can also recommend Roger Musson's online book (small charge) found at wheelpro.co.uk.

If you don't want to make tools I would advise starting with a basic truing stand (Tacx do a decent one ). Visit your local wheel builder and buy a cheap rim and hub (front non disc are easiest to build). Ask them to provide the spokes in the correct length so you can concentrate on the build process.

I'm self taught and with time you can build a wheel as good as anybody.

Sheldon Brown's website is a very good source of wheelbuilding instruction.

Wheels are very strong in regard to in-plane forces, like a rider's backside crashing down on the saaddle. Tyres provide almost all the suspension anyway.

Meaning, I doubt you will break the wheel just by riding it. But, always good to learn to build wheels.

Yes, a normal track frame with horizontal drop-outs will be spaced at 120mm, which is what the O.L.D of those rear hubs is (O.L.D is over-lock  nut distance, the distance between the outer faces of the hub lock nuts - not the wheel nuts that bolt it into the frame).

To be doubley sure, measure between the inside faces of the rear dropout, it should be 120mm or very close (within 1 or 2 mm).

As ever, Sheldon Brown explains it all better than me, so go here for more detail. -https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html