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Rechargeable front light for urban rides

Help please. My commute is 40 minutes in a city. I was criticised recently by a pedestrian, when on a cycle path, for 'blinding ' them. I want to be as visible as possible but not irritate drivers or pedestrians. I can charge up my light at work.
There seems to be a lot of choice. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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21 comments

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cyclisto | 6 years ago
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I use sub-10£ ebayish single XML-T6 led torch that takes a single 18650 battery. It indeed has a rather too wide beam but if you give a good angle to the ground only the people who have just had a bad haircut day will complain. There are now some nice new models with 2 leds and 18650 batteries that are dedicated bicycle lights at sub 20£ prices. The various german stvzo lights may have nice beams (I assume, I haven't tested them) but at ~70£ they cost the 1/4 of the price of a decent commuter bicycle, or like paying 3000£ to your new Ford Fiesta just to add front lights, which seems at least absurd to me.

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hawkinspeter replied to cyclisto | 6 years ago
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cyclisto wrote:

I use sub-10£ ebayish single XML-T6 led torch that takes a single 18650 battery. It indeed has a rather too wide beam but if you give a good angle to the ground only the people who have just had a bad haircut day will complain. There are now some nice new models with 2 leds and 18650 batteries that are dedicated bicycle lights at sub 20£ prices. The various german stvzo lights may have nice beams (I assume, I haven't tested them) but at ~70£ they cost the 1/4 of the price of a decent commuter bicycle, or like paying 3000£ to your new Ford Fiesta just to add front lights, which seems at least absurd to me.

I'm a fan of those 18650 based torches as well. They're really good for unlit roads at night, but are over-powered for cities unless they're aimed towards the ground. You can get a cheap usb-based charger for 18650 batteries and along with a spare battery or two, makes it very easy to recharge them.

If you don't need a long run-time, then the 16340/CR123 based torches are similarly good and half the size.

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RMurphy195 | 6 years ago
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You can easily just align your headlamp so as not to cause offence.I see (when I'm driving) so many bikes with the headlamp simply set too high, which dazzles oncoming drivers, especially modern Cree-LED lights. No help at all if you can see only a bright light and all else goes black.

My car headlamps are set so they shine on, roughly, the rear no. plate on a car ahead of me (car, not 4x4 etc which are quite high up), and as the car ahead pulls away I can seethe cut-off from the beam gradually dropping down its rear, as it were (!).

I adjust my bikes front lights to do a similar thing.  The lamp is handlebar-mounted, so I get it to shine with the top edge on something about the same height, then back away from it to make sure the beam points slightly downwards. That way I get the full benefit of the lamp on the ground ahead. Then I prop the bike upright with the light on its brightest setting and walk backwards just to check it doesn't dazzle.

If you want to be doubly-seen, you can do as I have and fit a "be seen by" lamp on the front as well (I have mine on flashing in dull weather, in traffic, or when there's bright sunshine but pools of shadow under trees etc.). Its a Cateye Omni 5 (https://www.rutlandcycling.com/102312/products/cateye-omni-5-hl-ld155-5-...) which has a wide arc  side-side which of course my to-see-by lamp doesn't! In my case I've fitted his to the stem using the bracket for the rear (seapost) mounted version of the lamp. Works a treat!

PS my front lamp is a pair of BBB BLS-63 lamps (I usually only have one of them on), I think they have been superseded by a later model. Elastic straps to mount them, with a revolving base so you can put them on a vertical or near vertical surface (eg front fork blade) and align them vertically,or of course on the handlebars.

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Lenient smile | 6 years ago
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Thanks for all the comments.
I am currently using a Moon Meteor 100 on the middle strength beam plus a Knog which I have flashing. I am trying to work out if I need to buy a better light- one that means I am more visible from the side.

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Canyon48 replied to Lenient smile | 6 years ago
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Lenient smile wrote:

Thanks for all the comments. I am currently using a Moon Meteor 100 on the middle strength beam plus a Knog which I have flashing. I am trying to work out if I need to buy a better light- one that means I am more visible from the side.

Some lights offer a middle/low power setting with an additional bright pulse every second or so - these can be very good getting yourself seen whilst not blinding those around you.

I use wheel lights for added side (and a bit of rear) visibility - Cateye Orbit's. They aren't massively bright, but as they are spinning around on the wheels they are noticeable in a similar way to pedal reflectors.

Some front lights do offer a certain amount of side visibility with little amber lenses to the sides - these amber lights can be obscured by your hands on the bars from the side though. The Light and Motion Ubrban 350/650/800 lights do this - they have good reviews from road.cc.

http://road.cc/content/review/143351-light-and-motion-urban-800-front-light

http://road.cc/content/review/137128-light-and-motion-urban-650-front-light

The 350 also represents fantastic value at less than £40 if you decide 350 lumens is enough for urban riding.

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CXR94Di2 | 6 years ago
0 likes

Niterider lumina 950, 750.  By far the best bang for your buck, superbright, flash mode, very well built and decent bracket.  

For a tail light, I would highly recommend, the Cygolite Hotshot 100 or 150, again superbright, multiple flash modes, last upto 200hours on single charge.

 

I have the NR Lumina 750 and the original Cygolite Hotshot 50.  3 years old now, still going strong.

 

I have also a Busch/Mueller Dynamo light, fantastic bit of kit, great beam cutoff, very pricey, but a great investment if you're going Dynamo system.

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Al__S | 6 years ago
6 likes

There is no winning. There is no sweet spot. There is nothing you can do to avoid either:

A: pedestrians claiming your light is too bright

B: Drivers saying they didn't see you because your light isn't bright enough when they pull out in front of you

C: Both, in the space of two minutes.

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Dr_Lex | 6 years ago
0 likes

^ good spot; looks a fair power for a reasonable price.

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oldstrath | 6 years ago
1 like

Spanninga version of the saferide seems to be available now, don't know how good it is

 

https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/spanninga-axendo-60-bike-front-light-led-u...

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kil0ran | 6 years ago
3 likes

Rather than have the light on the bars consider mounting it on the fork crown, you'll be able to spot potholes easier and not blind pedestrians. Get a B&M light from Germany (Rose or Bikediscount.de usually have best prices). If your fork isnt drilled get a clamp that lets you mount it below your stem (Topeak do a 31.8mm adjustable bar mount which worked well for me)

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oldstrath | 6 years ago
1 like

For lit conditions,  probably something like the Sigma BBS suggests or a BM Ixon Core.

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alansmurphy | 6 years ago
2 likes

Don't listen to Chas and be prepared to tell people to fuck off. The simple thing to do is put the bike against a wall and stand in front of it.

As btbs says above though, some strobe effects can be stupid and it often seems logical to use a high setting, flashing is to be seen rather than see. I tend to have a high power light pointing low to light the road for me and a flashing one to be seen, also tend to have one around the wrist for right turns.

You don't need to spend a fortune, aldi did some metal build ones last year that were as good as moon lights, a tenner each rather than a hundred pounds plus...

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ChasP replied to alansmurphy | 6 years ago
3 likes
alansmurphy wrote:

Don't listen to Chas and be prepared to tell people to fuck off. The simple thing to do is put the bike against a wall and stand in front of it.

As btbs says above though, some strobe effects can be stupid and it often seems logical to use a high setting, flashing is to be seen rather than see. I tend to have a high power light pointing low to light the road for me and a flashing one to be seen, also tend to have one around the wrist for right turns.

You don't need to spend a fortune, aldi did some metal build ones last year that were as good as moon lights, a tenner each rather than a hundred pounds plus...

You say don't listen to me when I advocate not dazzling people then give good advice on how to check you're not doing it. I agree with you mostly but think some of the irregular flashing modes can be good for attracting attention without blinding as much as longer flashes or solid bright light.

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alansmurphy replied to ChasP | 6 years ago
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ChasP wrote:
alansmurphy wrote:

Don't listen to Chas and be prepared to tell people to fuck off. The simple thing to do is put the bike against a wall and stand in front of it.

As btbs says above though, some strobe effects can be stupid and it often seems logical to use a high setting, flashing is to be seen rather than see. I tend to have a high power light pointing low to light the road for me and a flashing one to be seen, also tend to have one around the wrist for right turns.

You don't need to spend a fortune, aldi did some metal build ones last year that were as good as moon lights, a tenner each rather than a hundred pounds plus...

You say don't listen to me when I advocate not dazzling people then give good advice on how to check you're not doing it. I agree with you mostly but think some of the irregular flashing modes can be good for attracting attention without blinding as much as longer flashes or solid bright light.

Apologies, not sure what I was on last night, probably read too many fixie/pedestrian posts.

I did also notice last year a ton of light pollution. Not sure if it is my age or whether there are just too many leds, and whether adding more personally makes me stand out or part of the problem...

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BehindTheBikesheds | 6 years ago
2 likes

Turn off the flashing light/strobe setting for one, more often than not people on bikes use it and with the light far too bright, also ensure your light is not pointing upward.

Personally I use a Sigma PAVA, 2 steady settings, runs off 4xAA batts and on the lowest setting is more than ample for urban riding and will last for more than 10 hours on the lower setting.

the Pava is not that readily available however it has a fantastic clamp that fits any bar in seconds and removes as quickly too and the higher setting is perfect for unlit conditions even to 30mph+ downhill. However any of the Sigma lights will do (Sigma Buster etc) AND importantly have a lens/refractor that puts most of the light onto the road. 

The Sigma Buster 200 should be more than ample for urban conditions and is inexpensive but well constructed and gets v.good reviews.

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dottigirl | 6 years ago
6 likes

It's sometimes not about the light's power, but the lens and the angle you have it at.

 What are you currently using?

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Canyon48 | 6 years ago
1 like

http://road.cc/content/review/172440-cateye-volt-800-front-light

Cateye Volt 800 is a very good performer. It has plenty of brightness settings.

I wouldn't worry about a pedestrian complaining - it's best to be seen. I'm sure pedestrians don't complain to car drivers using Osram night breakers or HID headlights which are unbelievably bright (I know, I have Osram myself).

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ChasP replied to Canyon48 | 6 years ago
8 likes

wellsprop wrote:

http://road.cc/content/review/172440-cateye-volt-800-front-light

Cateye Volt 800 is a very good performer. It has plenty of brightness settings.

I wouldn't worry about a pedestrian complaining - it's best to be seen. I'm sure pedestrians don't complain to car drivers using Osram night breakers or HID headlights which are unbelievably bright (I know, I have Osram myself).

Don't listen to this selfish idiot. Blinding the people you are approaching is dangerous for everyone whatever mode of transport you or they are using. Far too many 'bike lights' are basically overpowered torches with no proper cut off and should be banned. Angling them down can help but often then the focus is then too close for them to be useful. Busch & Muller make some good ones, as the law in Germany requires, but can be very expensive.

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Dr_Lex replied to ChasP | 6 years ago
1 like

ChasP wrote:

 

[...] Busch & Muller make some good ones, as the law in Germany requires, but can be very expensive.

agreed ; look on rosebikes at B&M, Trelock, Sigma and Axa. Shipping is fast and not expensive. It's a shame that Philips stopped making their SafeRide lamps, which took AA batteries and recharged from a USB socket. All have shaped beams, like car & motorbike headlamps, and avoid the dazzle issue of torch-like beams.

https://www.rosebikes.com/products/bike-parts/bike-lights/battery-powere...

 

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CXR94Di2 replied to ChasP | 6 years ago
1 like

ChasP wrote:

wellsprop wrote:

http://road.cc/content/review/172440-cateye-volt-800-front-light

Cateye Volt 800 is a very good performer. It has plenty of brightness settings.

I wouldn't worry about a pedestrian complaining - it's best to be seen. I'm sure pedestrians don't complain to car drivers using Osram night breakers or HID headlights which are unbelievably bright (I know, I have Osram myself).

Don't listen to this selfish idiot. Blinding the people you are approaching is dangerous for everyone whatever mode of transport you or they are using. Far too many 'bike lights' are basically overpowered torches with no proper cut off and should be banned. Angling them down can help but often then the focus is then too close for them to be useful. Busch & Muller make some good ones, as the law in Germany requires, but can be very expensive.

 

Sod that, bright as possible, stand out, be seen.  If you're a night commuter, more power!

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Canyon48 replied to ChasP | 6 years ago
0 likes

ChasP wrote:

wellsprop wrote:

http://road.cc/content/review/172440-cateye-volt-800-front-light

Cateye Volt 800 is a very good performer. It has plenty of brightness settings.

I wouldn't worry about a pedestrian complaining - it's best to be seen. I'm sure pedestrians don't complain to car drivers using Osram night breakers or HID headlights which are unbelievably bright (I know, I have Osram myself).

Don't listen to this selfish idiot. Blinding the people you are approaching is dangerous for everyone whatever mode of transport you or they are using. Far too many 'bike lights' are basically overpowered torches with no proper cut off and should be banned. Angling them down can help but often then the focus is then too close for them to be useful. Busch & Muller make some good ones, as the law in Germany requires, but can be very expensive.

A little harsh, one would suggest.

I totally agree that some bike lights are unbelievably overpowering - the Cateye Volt 1200 my other half has, is one of those (when used at full power and not pointed down).

My Volt 800 is not as bright as my Osram night breakers on my car. As I pointed out, it also has a number of brightness settings to avoid blinding people (and can be very easily angled down).

I struggle to see how using a light that is less bright than dipped car headlights is selfish, but there we go!

 

 

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