Di2 Ultegra newby

On both my Di2 builds i have actually laid out and connected the components on a table first, just to make sure they are all working. A good idea especially when fitting an already used system. You can then transfer from the table to the bike methodically.

As already noted leave a little slack when connecting to the shifters, if i recall the installation manual shows this, just a simple 2cm loop will do. The little loop will soon flatten down once bar tape and rubber hoods are fitted. The loop allows some movement in the shifter without popping the connection.

I hope you got some of the little cable clips in your used kit. They look like cable ties and just clip to the cable, used to 'pad out' the cable in the frame and stop the cable rattling about. Very useful, if you did not get any then just use tiny cable ties pulled all the way in to leave a long tail.

Don't wrap up the frame junction box in anything to pad it out in the frame. Simply place a couple of the mentioned cable ties on to each cable right next to the junction box to keep it from bouncing about in the frame.

Finally before you even start, think logically about the cable routing through the frame, especially round the bottom bracket. You want to make sure everything is out of the way when you put that BB in so not to pinch and cables.

Just one tip, be sure to leave a little slack in the cables underneath the bar tape, best just before the shifter connection. Had mine pop out when I had a little off, didn't discover it until I had uttered many profanities, aborted my planned 80km ride and cycled home stuck in 52-16.

I'd been nowhere near Di2 stuff prior to building my bike but found it all OK. Have a read of the Dealer Manual http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-UL0001-02-ENG.pdf

Get all the wires in the frame fitted and the junction box inserted up the down tube (or where it fits for you) prior to getting the mech and levers on.

Use the insertion tool to make sure the connections are fully in.

I've got the diagnositic kit as well which means you can program how it shifts (speed, multi-shift, etc.)

It's all pretty straightforward so long as you are methodical. Oh, and read up on how to reset the system whilst out and about as occasionally (well once for me, once someone else) the rear mech went into crash protectoin mode and stopped shifting. A bit of button pressing sorted that out.

And yeah, I'm not going back to mechanical on my road bike.

Well done for picking a great piece of kit. Once you have tried it you won't go back to mechanical shifters. I haven't done a clean install but have changed my 3 port to a 5 port for adding time trial shifters. Simple to do. I also purchased the diagnostic programmer to update firmware on all parts.

Did you get the internal battery? A much more sleek design