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so many teeth

I have been trawling help pages and generic guides on the net about gearing and my mental gears are worn out.

I think I need to make some changes to my cassette ..
Having got a entry level road sportive to get fit, im now finding im not using the lower gears.
From what I have worked out its 50 43 at the front and 11 32 at the back - Merida ride 100.

I was using the lowest gear combinations all the time when I started out a couple of months ago.
Now (same routes with hills) im rarely off the big gear at the front, when I do hit the crawler cog at the front I rarely feel the need to use the last 2 big cogs at the back. Im also finding that some of the gear changes in the middle are quite a clunk when trying to maintain momentum, im assuming that could be improved ?

So... my questions.

Is it usually just the rear cassette that is changed ? any benefit in my case changing the front gears as well ?

Can they be easily changed ?

Any recommendations to go for ? ... My preference is Amazon

thanks.

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14 comments

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allanj | 8 years ago
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It's up to you but in th borders I'd want a 28 at the back, Talla, Stow hill and Witchey knowe are all must do climbs and steep enough to test you!

It does sound like you need a nice new bike though  4

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john kirk replied to allanj | 8 years ago
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allanj wrote:

It's up to you but in th borders I'd want a 28 at the back, Talla, Stow hill and Witchey knowe are all must do climbs and steep enough to test you!

It does sound like you need a nice new bike though  4

I'll try out the 25 first..
For the sake of a handful of the longest steepest hills out there I think i'll get greatest benefit over the winter with my 8 gear limit by making those ratios closer where im using them most.

Nice new bike is certainly looking like the next step in spring with a 10 or 11 gear cassette.
I think the bike I have now with some treaded tyres will be ideal to see me through winter.
and im much more confident making that cassette purchase now...

thanks chaps

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john kirk replied to allanj | 8 years ago
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allanj wrote:

It's up to you but in th borders I'd want a 28 at the back, Talla, Stow hill and Witchey knowe are all must do climbs and steep enough to test you!

It does sound like you need a nice new bike though  4

I'll try out the 25 first..
For the sake of a handful of the longest steepest hills out there I think i'll get greatest benefit over the winter with my 8 gear limit by making those ratios closer where im using them most.

Nice new bike is certainly looking like the next step in spring with a 10 or 11 gear cassette.
I think the bike I have now with some treaded tyres will be ideal to see me through winter.
and im much more confident making that cassette purchase now...

thanks chaps

Avatar
alotronic | 8 years ago
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You could certainly drop from a 32 to a 28 and probably a 25. Given you have an 8sp probably 25. Not a massive investment and you will notice that your cadence is suiting the road better. 34x32 is gearing for steep, long climbs. Also take point about about climbing at a higher cadence, it can feel good to 'mash' but it's usually more efficient to stay seated and pedal faster, specially if you are a big bloke as you then let the bike take your weight and then all your energy is put into going forward - say 70rpm up. Or change - sit for a while, spine, stand up for a while at a lower RPM.

Sounds like you are having a good time on your bike, great news, enjoy the riding!

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john kirk replied to alotronic | 8 years ago
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alotronic wrote:

You could certainly drop from a 32 to a 28 and probably a 25. Given you have an 8sp probably 25. Not a massive investment and you will notice that your cadence is suiting the road better. 34x32 is gearing for steep, long climbs. Also take point about about climbing at a higher cadence, it can feel good to 'mash' but it's usually more efficient to stay seated and pedal faster, specially if you are a big bloke as you then let the bike take your weight and then all your energy is put into going forward - say 70rpm up. Or change - sit for a while, spine, stand up for a while at a lower RPM.

Sounds like you are having a good time on your bike, great news, enjoy the riding!

Thanks for the support and encouragement..
Its looking like the 25

I have to do it to make the ride better... I promised myself I wouldn't change a thing on the bike and just go through the winter on it... but its not suiting me the way its geared (although perfect when I started out  1 )

Then... im looking at a lighter spring summer bike next year (once ive lost 2 more stone off this bike lol)... saving now.
That new hydraulic rotor gearset looks tasty  1

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2 Wheeled Idiot | 8 years ago
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Is it really flat where you live because up almost any climb you should really be coning off the big ring and keeping the cadence up. This is one of the most improtnat things to do when starting cycling as it sets you up for continuously improving instead of stagnating.

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john kirk replied to 2 Wheeled Idiot | 8 years ago
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2 Wheeled Idiot wrote:

Is it really flat where you live because up almost any climb you should really be coning off the big ring and keeping the cadence up. This is one of the most improtnat things to do when starting cycling as it sets you up for continuously improving instead of stagnating.

I Cycled in the 80's on a steel Peugeot.. Just getting about the place in Durham.. lots of hills.

Im in the Scottish Borders now. Its not taken as long as I thought to get back into shape.
Ive been spinning up hills in the saddle ... Well, some of the 'hills' are not feeling like hills any more and as for the real climbs, if I do drop to the small cog at the front the rear cassette is usually in the middle when I drop down and thats where its staying at the moment - moving to lower gears from there feels a bit too mountain biky'e.

A local village ran a family bike fest recently for the first year.. run by the local bike club. I entered the TT by way of support having never done any bike events before. Over 7.4 miles I came in just under 25 mins. Not competitive I know ! but it wasn't a flat course and im fat. (but losing steadily  1 )
So.. im keeping the momentum going, its just that the low gears in the cassette are rarely been used and my arse is suffering clunky changes in the middle of the gearing..
So many variables to get right in choosing new gearing so really appreciating everyone's help.
 1

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vonhelmet | 8 years ago
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 40 You'd need new shifters to move to 9 speed. Better to just get an 8 speed hg50 cassette. Off the top of my head I think you can get that in 12-25 or 12-23, which might suit you.

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allanj | 8 years ago
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I think this will work http://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-HG50-8-Speed-Cassette/dp/B00ITE6VD4/ref=...

There's a link to the cassette removal tool you'd need as well, assuming you have a big spanner. You'll also need a chain whip.

I'm not 100% certain about the cassette though, you might be better with http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sunrace-8-Speed-Indexed-Cassette-Compatible/dp/B...

Instructions are here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05WxxDo4CvY

A very quick and easy job for your local shop though and less risk of ending up with the wrong thing.

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john kirk | 8 years ago
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and.... I have claris shifters but a sora rear derailleur....

currently I have 8 speeds (which is a max for claris) but the rear derailleur is sora ???

so... could I have a 9 speed cassette ?

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allanj replied to john kirk | 8 years ago
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john kirk wrote:

and.... I have claris shifters but a sora rear derailleur....

currently I have 8 speeds (which is a max for claris) but the rear derailleur is sora ???

so... could I have a 9 speed cassette ?

That would involve new shifters, and there may be an issue with the rear wheel as well, I'm not sure about spacing for 8 v 9 speed cassettes

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john kirk | 8 years ago
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Thanks  1

Which cassette with closer ratios would fit my bike ?

I'd have a go fitting one myself if I didn't need any special tools...
any links to a suitable set on amazon ??

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bikeclips | 8 years ago
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Yep - change your rear cassette if you feel the need. You'll rarely need a bigger gear at the top end but you might find that the closer ratios make it easier to find the perfect cadence at any given time. Change your chain at the same time. Well done on your progress!

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