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HOLY GRAIL: CYCLO-WINTER-TOURER

Hey all

im looking to build up a bike that can handle a few things........

Currently i have a steel condor accaio as my summer bike and a surly disc trucker for touring and commuting.
I sold my old bike to buy my condor and am finding that i only go on one full tour a year so its a bit of a waste for the surly beast! So im thinking that i sell the surly and buy a decent all rounder.

Ill mainly use this for commuting, winter riding, cyclocross dabling and touring. This is my criteria:

cyclocross frame (for cabling etc)
disc brakes.
rack mount.
fits mudguards.
doesnt weigh a tonne.
doesnt look shit.

id rather go steel or titanium, the closest i have found is the Lynskey Cooper CX but not in love with it and cant test ride it.

Im thinking ill build it up myself with roughly £600 of parts and want to keep it all below £2000 for the right frame but ideally £1500 all in

great to know your thoughts!

Oli

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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17 comments

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BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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I have BB7 (on my Rove) and I do not remember if they are "S". Either way, I share your complete satisfaction with the same.

BTW, the Rove is also in Ti and Alu (both of which are lighter than my steel). They must be closer to your weight range, no?

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olioneill123 | 8 years ago
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Thanks for your help everyone!

on the disc brake debacle i will be going avid bb7, have these on my tourer at the mo and they are great (although looking into the bb7 'S' - anyone had any good reviews on these?)

i have looked at a few of these frames mentioned already and it seems that weight is the main disadvantage - the equilibrium, croix de fer, kona rove are 2.2kg+

or the price is a little too high - laverjack, Kenisis, Qoroz cross-won (all around 1.6kg)

basically titanium is expensive and maybe for the 600g its not really worth it as some better wheels and components would save the weight eg Kenisis Crosslight wheels over Mavic Aksium One is 400g for £100 extra (which i wouldnt be able to afford if i bought a titanium)

its a difficult one...

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BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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Forget hydraulic disc brakes. IMO they make no sense on a bike to be used for all purposes. Go mechanical.

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fukawitribe replied to BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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BartaCoPaNibali wrote:

Forget hydraulic disc brakes. IMO they make no sense on a bike to be used for all purposes. Go mechanical.

If you don't mind me asking, any particular reason ?

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BartaCoPaNibali replied to fukawitribe | 8 years ago
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Maintenance and freezing in cold weather.

However, if you have a lot of time on your hands (I do not, unfortunately) and/or money (for a mechanic) and/or do not cycle in deep Winter with minus temperatures (as I do), hydraulic is fine.

It is a bit like electronic gears: great technology, fantastic when it works, but it is one more thing which can go wrong and, when it does, it is pretty spectacular in its failure.

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fukawitribe replied to BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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BartaCoPaNibali wrote:

Maintenance and freezing in cold weather.

However, if you have a lot of time on your hands (I do not, unfortunately) and/or money (for a mechanic) and/or do not cycle in deep Winter with minus temperatures (as I do), hydraulic is fine.

It is a bit like electronic gears: great technology, fantastic when it works, but it is one more thing which can go wrong and, when it does, it is pretty spectacular in its failure.

Well firstly you mentioned a bike used for 'all purposes' - for most that wouldn't involve spending a lot of time at minus temperatures. That said, i'm not sure which hydraulics you've been using but i've generally found the maintenance to be less than with cable - albeit with some more faff if you want to bleed them. As for freezing - nah. The viscosity of the fluid can increase at lower temperatures, like grease in a mechanical set-up, and you can get some seal issues at really low temperatures (material becomes more brittle) but that is way beyond your 'general use' point. For a view on hydraulics in cold temperatures you might want to read some of the manufacturer and technical feedback in the following from VeloNews, in particular the points the guy from Hayes makes

http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/01/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech...

Here's one take-away

The hydraulics-in-the-cold story is pretty straightforward. The DOT systems behave well down to at least -50F. Mineral-oil systems show slower retraction starting in the -20s or so but still perform well as far as braking.

and another (for balance)

I would basically rank things as such: Down to around -15F, hydraulic brakes will work the best; some may develop a sluggish feel based on the quality of the product. Below that, DOT brakes will hold up better, but below -30F, if you really need to ride your bike, mechanicals [cable-actuated disc brakes] will be the most reliable — if you can move your fingers enough to pull the lever.

..so I can see you point if you're regularly spending time below -30F (even then, cable pull discs are fine apparently. Remember, they're almost all hydraulic in the end.

As for hydraulic going spectacularly wrong.. no more than any fully mechanical system. So, for a 'bike for all purposes' - for most of us - I would say you're clutching at straws. If you don't like fully-hydraulic discs or even discs period, fine - it's your choice - but for the majority they're a good option the pros and cons of which can be explained without recourse to FUD.

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BartaCoPaNibali replied to fukawitribe | 8 years ago
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You are barking up the wrong tree. You have misunderstood "Well firstly you mentioned a bike used for 'all purposes' - for most that wouldn't involve spending a lot of time at minus temperatures."

All in my dictionary means "all". It might mean "all" also in the OP's. I use spike tires in the Winter.

"All" is not relative. It is an absolute.

If I had meant less than all, I would have used the word "most", or "many".

By the way, "all", if you are wondering, also means torrential rain, (at times, unfortunately) gale force winds, sleet and so on. Maybe it does not for you, but I rely 100% on my bike for commuting.

And that is my further point, my CX sits regularly in the bike rack at work at -10 degrees Celsius. I am glad yours does not, but I prefer not to risk testing the "experts".

And BTW, I look at the pros, but I do not base my decisions on the pros. If that were the case, I would have Di2 and disc brakes on my road bike now.

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fukawitribe replied to BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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BartaCoPaNibali wrote:

You are barking up the wrong tree. You have misunderstood "Well firstly you mentioned a bike used for 'all purposes' - for most that wouldn't involve spending a lot of time at minus temperatures."

All in my dictionary means "all". It might mean "all" also in the OP's. I use spike tires in the Winter.

"All" is not relative. It is an absolute.

If I had meant less than all, I would have used the word "most", or "many".

By the way, "all", if you are wondering, also means torrential rain, (at times, unfortunately) gale force winds, sleet and so on. Maybe it does not for you, but I rely 100% on my bike for commuting.

And that is my further point, my CX sits regularly in the bike rack at work at -10 degrees Celsius. I am glad yours does not, but I prefer not to risk testing the "experts".

Well, well - I guess you do mean absolutely every situation conceivable, I imagine that's very helpful to the OP. I won't ask what equipment Edit: 'an all purpose' bike should have against fine sand, coarse dust, high humidity and temperature, salt and so on and so on as you've obviously thought about that then - hub gears i'd imagine for a start. I have most of what you do, bar the regular low temps but the rest is the same and haven't had any problems with rim brakes, cable pull discs or hydraulics - so I don't see the issue you think there is.

As for your temperature comment - hydraulics should be fine at that relatively innocuous temperature according to feedback i've heard from the people who actually use them, the people that build bikes with them and the manufacturers.. what problems did you have with them in particular ?

BartaCoPaNibali wrote:

And BTW, I look at the pros, but I do not base my decisions on the pros. If that were the case, I would have Di2 and disc brakes on my road bike now.

I didn't suggest you only consider the pros, don't be obtuse. A lot of people base their decisions on both the pros and cons - where the cons dictate a choice is untenable, they clearly are the gating issue. This is not one of those situations and regardless of performance, you don't need 'lots of time' or money or a mechanic to use hydraulics, even in the winter. Whatever, I don't expect you to agree - I just wanted to point out your advice my not be helpful to the OP and sounds based on unfounded fears which, when pointed out to you, you ignored instead of commented on. Hey ho.

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Tovarishch replied to BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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My hydraulic discs work fine down to minus 20 odd (C). I don't tend to use the bike when it is colder than that.

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CXR94Di2 replied to BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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BartaCoPaNibali wrote:

Maintenance and freezing in cold weather.

However, if you have a lot of time on your hands (I do not, unfortunately) and/or money (for a mechanic) and/or do not cycle in deep Winter with minus temperatures (as I do), hydraulic is fine.

It is a bit like electronic gears: great technology, fantastic when it works, but it is one more thing which can go wrong and, when it does, it is pretty spectacular in its failure.

I have ridden my hydraulic brakes bikes in below zero temps and the brakes don't freeze. I think you are thinking of SRAM with their seals issues.

I have had my Di2 for over a year and have ridden it in some atrocious weather including a hurricane with rain of biblical(Prudenetial 2014) proportions, it worked perfectly.

Servicing is a fun part of owning a bike whatever the kit it has. If you cant fix it then you are missing out on some great skills

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hylozoist | 8 years ago
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The Genesis Croix de Fer frameset is an obvious choice. Built one up recenty with 105 groupset, Shimano hydraulic brakes and Kinesis Crosslight Disc V3 wheels for something aroud £1500.

The Tripster ATR looks like a good, if pricier alternative.

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jaymack | 8 years ago
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Qoroz cross-won, a fabulous bespoke titanium bike that's bang on your specifications. Price wise it's pretty reasonable and it will last a lifetime; in fact bearing in mind the crash I had in January mine nearly did last my lifetime.

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BartaCoPaNibali | 8 years ago
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Kona Rove.

I have the original steel version (from 2013). Would not change it for the world. I use it year-round in all weather from extreme heat to ice/snow. I train with it as well (Winter, super foul weather).

Since then, cheaper and different versions have come out (alu, non-race bike handlebars). It also comes in Ti, frame-only though.

Raleigh has shamelessly copied the Rove, but with much better components.

On your requirements:

cyclocross frame (for cabling etc) -- a bit of a weak point because the cabling is under the bottom bracket, but if you keep it clean, it will never let you down.

disc brakes -- yup, but I switched out the Hayes (all the producers uses Hayes, rubbish in my opinion) for Avid BB7 (really good).

rack mount -- yup.

fits mudguards -- yup.

doesnt weigh a tonne -- yup-ish. The steel is not light, but neither is it too heavy. Depends also on your components. Comes also in Ti and alu.

doesnt look shit -- I have the original which is bright green. I was hesitant at first, but now love it. I put red handlebar tape on it. Newer versions are more demure.

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Stratman | 8 years ago
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I have the Equilibrium disc ltd - I got it in May and have commuted (25mi each way) regularly ever since, and really enjoyed the bike. I'm on holiday at the moment, and brought my Defy Advanced instead. Only done one ride (32 mi) on it, but I miss the discs, and I think I'm just as fast on the equilibrium. Not tried touring, but I do use rear panniers. I don't think the stock fork will take a front rack if you wanted to use one, the bolts are for the mudguards

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gthornton101 | 8 years ago
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Slightly over budget but the Kinesis Tripster ATR looks superb. Or the Crosslight 5T ticks most boxes and comes in under £1500 with 105 groupset.

However to stay within your max. budget I'd probably go for the Genesis Equilibrium Disc Ltd  16

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rjfrussell | 8 years ago
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kinesis tripster atr

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CXR94Di2 | 8 years ago
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This might be just a tad too much, but covers the frame requirements

http://road.cc/content/news/159153-jlaverack-launches-disc-equipped-all-...

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