Wheel repair advice

I would highly recommend learning how to true your own wheels; I have found this skill to be a lifesaver many times when ambushed by Ninja rocks and roots out on the trail or their urban equivalent - dogs and small, inadequately supervised children. The very act of stopping and trueing provides the necessary zen balance to eradicate the stress of the calamity.

I'd just have to go with the sh*t happens....why not go for a pair of nice lightweight handbuilts....Stans rims with hubs to suit budget and CX ray spokes, strongx light, not ridiculous money and also any bike shop will be able to fully rebuild very quickly and replace spokes as they are all standard components.
Mavics are decent but good luck getting some spares should anything happen, I've also heard reports of rims cracking after several thousand km's (only second hand reports, never seen one break or even buckled tbf)

It could be that the wheel went out of true in the first place due to deformations (probably more-or-less invisible) at the spoke holes in the rims. In other words, the rim may have already started to fail prior to the truing.

Just had exactly the same thing happen to an Easton EA90RT. Probably had about 3000 hard miles on it. Wheel went out of true - got it sorted. Started rubbing the blocks under power about 2 rides later. Had wheel checked and it had cracks around 4 spokes and one had virtually pulled out. Counted my lucky stars it had not given way completely on my rather rapid descent from 'The Tumble' that day. Easton build their wheels with extremely high tension on the drive side spokes. I weigh 85kg and put it down to bad luck/metal fatigue.

Brand new wheel and the spokes pull through, then you have an issue, a few years old and plenty of use then it is simply a fatigue failure and one of those things.

As you don't say how old the wheel is....

Also, you say the wheel was taken in because it was out of true, how out of true, it might simply be a case that to get the wheel running straight that a lot of tension was needed on certain spokes to pull it back and this simply overloaded an already fatigued rim.

Next what wheel, some such as Campag do run at high tensions because of the number of spokes.

I'm with Jack Osbourne snr - rim failures like this do just happen and, even if you think the most likely reason is that the truing resulted in a spoke being too tight (perhaps they didn't stress-relieve the wheel properly), how can you tell that failure wasn't about to happen, or that the rim was slightly damaged (and waiting for a failure in that area) by the event that caused it to go out of true in the first place?

Talk to them *without* the assumption that it's their fault. Bear in mind that rims, even high-end ones, do fail occasionally for no good reason. I also agree that a wheel build for the cost of a new rim would be a good deal.

I doubt very much that you'll get them to accept that their repair was the primary cause for all the reasons above - I don't think I would if I'd built the wheel.

One last thing: learn to true and build wheels yourself - it's easy and therapeutic and, once you know how to do it, no-one will build wheels for you as carefully as you do for yourself.

I think the shop has a responsibility here it would appear spoke too high tension, contact local training standards for advice and put the shops name out there so people are aware of the quality of work they offer, I'm sure others won't want the same to happen to them.

I'm afraid you are solely at the mercy of the LBS and their customer service policy. It would be very difficult to prove (without hugely expensive costs) that the truing exercise was solely to blame for the rim failure.

Rims fail, and cracking around spoke holes is a common mode of failure.

If you can get them to sell you a new rim, but build the wheel for you for free, you'll have done okay.