Bike Service - What would you expect to go wrong after 1700 miles?

by leadertheiver   May 23, 2014  

I purchased a Moda Bolero in early 2013 and have cycled about 1700 miles on it since. I had a first service after a couple of months and then took my bike for a full service the other day. I was a bit shocked by the number of things that needed to be replaced! e.g. Chain, Cassette, Wheel bearings for both front and rear wheels, Front gear mech (crack in the original).

There is still a problem with the rear wheel bearing and my LBS have loaned me a new wheel whilst they try and work out what the problem is.

Is this normal wear and tear for this kind of mileage?



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Ok, on my 'ye olde' stuff, the following is gubbed every 2500 miles one average ( no effect on riding, but obviously worn if properly inspected)

Front and rear hub loose balls
Bottom bracket loose balls
All Cables
Headset bearing (clean and lube, not replace)
Brake pads

At 5000 miles the cassettes/ freewheels are past their best and the bar tape worn

Hub cones last 10 years plus.
I've yet to have a derailleur fail unless it's been badly damaged

Be aware that 'the official' advice is to swap chains and cassettes at the same time, it's sometimes correct, but I usually just do the chain, if it slips even after running in, the cassette then gets done. Bear in mind a campag record chain and cassette is about 300 quid!

All Campag

posted by Flying Scot [794 posts]
23rd May 2014 - 19:15


Change after winter, its fairly knacked by then. Good for summer, and then knack it over winter again.

seems to work (although, if you have any big plans in the summer, change for them as well!)

posted by themartincox [436 posts]
23rd May 2014 - 19:31


Doesn't it depend on what type of rider you are and the terrain you're riding on?

I'm a pensioner, not powerful or fast and ride mainly in the flatlands of Cheshire.

My Carrera TdF is approaching 4k miles and the cheap components I was warned about are operating as well as the day I bought the bike.

I guess that a younger, stronger, faster rider who is pounding up and down hill would have reduced this bike to scrap by the same mileage

Crosshouses's picture

posted by Crosshouses [244 posts]
23rd May 2014 - 19:37


Was your shock the number of issues, or what it was costing you!

If you take care of most of the easier/intermediate stuff yourself you'll save a fortune both on that work and by reducing the wear on parts. To have problem with both hubs sounds like they weren't greased sufficiently, and that's caused premature wear. It's easy to top that up yourself between services. All you need is a grease gun (ask the LBS for the grease they use), cone spanners and an hour of fiddling until you get good at it.

You should check whether you actually *need* a cassette, or they're just changing it with the chain. Once every three chains is the usual rule of thumb for us cheapskates. For the chain itself, paying an LBS to change that isn't much different to paying them to change a tube, everyone should be able to do that themselves.

And with the money you save, reward your LBS by going back and buying more stuff!

posted by bikebot [1049 posts]
23rd May 2014 - 23:08


Mileage out of bits depends on a lot of different factors, do you clean your chain/bike regularly? What conditions do you ride in? Ridden over winter, did you wash the salt etc off after every ride? Leaving water in bearings will destroy they pretty quickly as well

posted by TheDoctor [108 posts]
23rd May 2014 - 23:14


Reading the above comments, to clarify my duty, I do a lot of climbing in all weathers, but also keep the drive train very clean.

All Campag

posted by Flying Scot [794 posts]
24th May 2014 - 9:17


hope the 1700miles was all good riding
as already said little and often helps on reducing a big bill but no surprise I'll use a forum to grind a personal axe!
My suspicions are that 10speed chains wear very quickly irrespective of ride conditions - I ride my 9speed CX (non racing AKA drop bar hybrid) thru all sorts of stuff and expect a chain to last 1500/2000miles as that is what I experienced with 8 and 9 speed MTBs with Peak District gritstone grinding paste.
Mrs antigee's 10speed road bike was shifting so so recently and I checked chain and is well stretched at a lot less than 1000miles after a chain and cassette replacement.
The Carrera TDF mentioned is 8 speed I think - "cheap" components but reliable (that's my axe grinding!) but even then at some point there will be a major service and it will cost chain/cassette/chain rings BB / cable / headsets nothing lasts forever but some older robust kit does seem to last longer

As to the wheel bearings I'm not familiar with the wheel set but suspect so called sealed bearings - great if live in dry countries - but if you regularly ride in the rain then a wheel set with easily serviceable cup and cone bearings is the way to go - but only if you bother to service them its definitely my least favourite job

not sure on the crack if mean front mech or chain ring - neither ok and possible unusual

costs less than £10 for a chain check tool and that saves wondering why shifting is poor and being able to replace a chain will prolong cassette life and isn't hard with some chains and can quite often be picked up in sales for a big discount on the RRP

antigee's picture

posted by antigee [207 posts]
24th May 2014 - 12:08


Well I have an 8 speed cassette and I've changed the chain once and cassette once in about 14000 miles. The chain needs a change soon and to be honest apart from something caused by a silly accident I've only spent money on tyres and inner tubes. I let the LBS do the chain and cassette the first time as I was lacking in experience but now I've got a tool for the cassette because my daughter wanted to take an old wheel apart for a photography project! Just need to get a chain tool to do the chain myself next time and the cassette later when it needs it.

I've got a Specialized Secteur Triple 2011. A bit heavy but reliable. I did a lot of miles in the wet winter weather and to be honest I'm not the most assiduous cleaner of a bike but that is a little deliberate to make it less appealing to the numerous bike thieves in Cambridge.

posted by Alan Tullett [1497 posts]
24th May 2014 - 14:27


Alan Tullett wrote:
but now I've got a tool for the cassette because my daughter wanted to take an old wheel apart for a photography project!

It's OK, I'm sure your wife doesn't read this site, you can be honest here Laughing

posted by bikebot [1049 posts]
24th May 2014 - 15:32


bikebot wrote:
Alan Tullett wrote:
but now I've got a tool for the cassette because my daughter wanted to take an old wheel apart for a photography project!

It's OK, I'm sure your wife doesn't read this site, you can be honest here Laughing

My wife knows very well about my cycling and fantasy cycling obsession! It was a Photography GCSE project on the theme of order and she decided to take a spare wheel apart and put all the pieces on a blanket to take some photos. For this I had to buy a tool to take the cassette off (already had a spoke tool) and I might as well buy a chain tool now and do the job myself next time. Changed my chainset from a cottered one to a cotterless one in the mid-70s but that was the last time I did a significant job on a bike. It was quite fun to take a wheel apart even though we've never bothered to put it back together again. I had a spare wheel because it was locked to a gate but the rest of the bike was stolen.

posted by Alan Tullett [1497 posts]
24th May 2014 - 18:43


Alan Tullett wrote:
I had a spare wheel because it was locked to a gate but the rest of the bike was stolen.

Oh damn, that was a nice story until it got to that part Sad

Well, as the weather is so bad today I'm actually swapping my own chain and rear cassette as they've reached that time. I think I need a new knee as well, but I don't have the right tools to do that myself.

posted by bikebot [1049 posts]
24th May 2014 - 20:02


Flying Scot wrote:
Reading the above comments, to clarify my duty, I do a lot of climbing in all weathers, but also keep the drive train very clean.

Serious point, how are you cleaning it? You're not using a jet wash by any chance?

posted by bikebot [1049 posts]
24th May 2014 - 20:51


Brake pads, that'd be about it at 3000km.

Chain a bit later on (depending upon how clean you keep it) and cassette if you don't replace your chain (aiming for about three chains to each cassette).

Tyres should last about 5000km unless they're race tyres - I've had double that with some brands.

Bottom brackets are a bit in the firing line - £20 disposable part every year or so. Wheel bearings hopefully last longer than your rims but you might be unlucky.

Cables (in and out) and bar tape once a year because you're worth it.

This is all my experience with upper-mid groupsets (105 / Force). Cheaper stuff is... Cheap.

posted by Pauldmorgan [188 posts]
24th May 2014 - 22:43


Front brake pads would need replacing, indexing fine tuned, bolts re torqued, brake and gear cables adjusted after a bit of stretching, not much else...

posted by edd23 [55 posts]
25th May 2014 - 7:06


bikebot wrote:
Flying Scot wrote:
Reading the above comments, to clarify my duty, I do a lot of climbing in all weathers, but also keep the drive train very clean.

Serious point, how are you cleaning it? You're not using a jet wash by any chance?

No, absolutely not, but you're talking 25 to 40 year old kit here, with no seals whatsoever.

All Campag

posted by Flying Scot [794 posts]
25th May 2014 - 8:23


I put a lot of power through my cranks, which is why (apparently) I've gone through two bottom brackets in as many years.

Otherwise, as everyone else has said, it depends on the type of riding you do, the type of surfaces and conditions you ride in/on, the components themselves and how they are maintained & cleaned.

Ghedebrav's picture

posted by Ghedebrav [1125 posts]
25th May 2014 - 10:39


It depends....

I would expect more than 1700miles out of those parts. Only perhaps a chain may need replacing if you ride in sand or grit a lot (I know its a road bike, but you never know!). The problem is that I have found quite a few parts wear or break quicker that expected, and a lot tend to be non-Shimano/Campag/SRAM parts in the drivechain. Most generic seatposts tend to be ok on road bikes, but moving parts seem to be dodgier. Perhaps it is because they are built in large factories in the Far East on behalf of other manufacturers and therefore do not have the same QC as the big named companies who make their own kit, and also they do not have to worry about their own reputation as their name is not on the kit.
But other things come into it too - is the bike stored inside? Is it ridden through the winter? Is it properly cleaned? I also think a problem is that with parts like cartridge BBs and bearings that you often cannot service them and so they are often left to look after themselves. If they develop play then they are not serviced but rather they are left to run until they fall apart which may be a very quick process.

posted by domofarmfrites [20 posts]
26th May 2014 - 9:26


Heavy rider? Lots of hills? Ride in the rain? Aggressively? All make a big difference in component life. Compare it to car mileage - 10K miles on the motorway is probably less wearing than 1000 miles in the city. I recently read the instructions with some Campy components and they warned that riders over 80 kgs needed to be extra cautious. 80 kgs is 176 lb!

So a small, cautious rider in flat country who only rides in dry weather is going to see a lot more life from components than a heavy rider in attack mode on the hills in the rain.

For the most part, it's easy enough to tell when bits are knackered. A chain life tool is £5 (or you can just measure). Bearings (incl. BB) should be obvious by feel. Cassettes chainrings and brake pads you can eyeball.

Most bikes never get ridden far enough to wear anything out (I bet). So you might decide in subsequent purchases to get a bike that matches your riding style and needs. That's the benefit of experience.

Ride your own ride

posted by CanAmSteve [208 posts]
26th May 2014 - 23:53


Thanks for all your comments and advice. I've just come back from a walking holiday on the Isle of Wight but did manage to get a "free" day to cycle round the island. It was a lot hillier than I had originally thought! There are blue signs to indicate the round the island route but we managed to miss one and added a few more miles to the journey. An added complication occurred after my younger, fitter, lighter and better bike cycling buddy (aka Jim the brother in law) was saying how good his new tyres were. My reply was "I think you have a puncture"!

Back to the thread...

I am 6ft tall and 82 kg so could do with losing a few kg. I cycle to work twice a week (26 miles per day) with paniers, adding to the weight. There is one hill on the way to work, just over 1.5 miles in length, 77ft to 540ft high. Coming home there is a 3.4 mile climb of 335 feet.

Living in England, there is always lots of rain, pot holes and country lanes with muck on. I've done a few long distance trips (Padstow to Bath, Bath to Usk then Cardiff) which have involved being "Sustraned" e.g. going down bumpy tracks more suitable to Otters!

The bike is stored indoors. I haven't been very good at cleaning the bike but would just use elbow grease, bucket and washing up liquid, plus a chain cleaner. I certainly didn't clean the bike everytime I went for a ride over winter.

My shock was the number of components that needed replacing in one go! The bike is marketed as a winter bike so I would expect the components to be a bit sturdier than they have prooved. Having said that I am happy with the Moda Bolero and enjoy riding on it whenever I can. Going to do my first 60 mile Sportive this year as well.

posted by leadertheiver [7 posts]
1st June 2014 - 10:22


At 2700km I would expect to have to adjust my shift cables as they will have stretched. But I would be very surprised to have to change anything.

The only reason the bearings would go in your wheels would be if the seals were unfit for purpose.

A "crack" in the front mech sounds like a warranty issue. I don't understand how you crack a front mech.

Save yourself some money by riding your chain and cassette for another 7.5k. You will have to replace them all (and chainrings) in the end but if your chain has already stretched to the point that you need to buy a new cassette and if your shifting isn't suffering then (provided you are using the chain and cassette together and you aren't swapping in another wheel/cassette from time to time or using same wheel/cassette on another bike) I'd ride it into the ground.

posted by surly_by_name [213 posts]
2nd June 2014 - 9:22


Ok first things first. The bike is classed as winter because it can take mudguards, presumably with good sized tyres. Not that componenty will last forever and day.

I take it you are using Microshift components, of which I have sod all experiance with so can not comment. But it could be simply that Microshift parts are not as good as the major three.The front mech sounds a bit dodgy as does the rear wheel. New bearings depend on how hard you hit pot holes.

The worse case scenario is that the shop have just taken you for a ride and replaced bits that maybe worn but not knackered. Ala motorplaces that offer free brake check and tell you that the brand new parts on the brand new car were knackered and dangerous, so were replaced.

posted by Yorkshie Whippet [412 posts]
2nd June 2014 - 12:47