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How to get more aero without spending a fortune

Some aerodynamic tweaks to help you reduce drag, without spending much money

Aerodynamics is still the hottest word in road cycling, with deep section wheels, aero frames, and helmets a common presence not only in the professional peloton but also with amateur racers and club riders.

At higher speeds it is air resistance that consumes almost your entire power output. Travelling at about 20mph, up to 90% of your effort is used to overcome the air resistance, to push the air out of the way. You might think that only racers can benefit from improving aerodynamic efficiency, but in fact, most cyclists can benefit from a few aerodynamic tweaks

On the drops Trek Madone - 1.jpg

The latest aerodynamic equipment can cost a small fortune, though. It’s even possible to book time in a wind tunnel if you’re feeling particularly flush and want to do a proper job of reducing your drag and have results to validate the improvements.

The fastest aero road bikes

We’re not all made of money, though, but it’s possible to get more aerodynamic without spending any money. 

Close-fitting clothing

The cyclist causes about 80% of the air resistance (drag) so there are significant performance gains to be had by taking a closer look at your outfit. Loose and flappy clothing just catches the wind and massively increases your drag. A one-piece skin suit can save you 29 seconds over 40km at 37kph, according to an article by Damon Rinard and John Allen. 

2021 Nopiz Pro -1 Jersey - Men - chest.jpg

So close-fitting clothing is good, then. Choose a jersey and shorts that have a snug fit and in particular fit really well around the torso and shoulders. It’s not just racers that benefit from close-fitting clothing, you’ll benefit during a sportive even at lower speeds because a slower cyclist spends more time on the road so saves more time. 

Most of the professional teams now wear clothing that has been developed in the wind-tunnel, with aero suits (skin suits with pockets and long zips) a common sight in the peloton. But you don’t have to drop your month’s salary on the latest aero clothing,  going down a size can be a simple way to achieve this.

Zip up your jersey

Gore Power Trail thermo jersey Zip

Riding along with your jersey or gilet unzipped and flapping in the wind might keep you cool, but it will generate loads of drag. You might as well wear a parachute. Unless you’re grinding up a steep climb below the speed at which air resistance is a factor, keep the jersey zipped up. You might be hot, but you'll be fast.

Get your head down

As your body causes most of the drag, getting your head down is a simple way to reduce drag. You’re aiming to reduce your frontal surface area, and keep your position as sleek and low profile as possible. A dropped riding position can reduce your drag by as much as 7.8% according to a study by Engineering Sport.

15147-2-490.jpg

The drops aren’t just for the descents you know. Get your head and back down low by using the drops on the flat roads, you’ll be surprised at the difference. If your drops are hard to reach, consider putting some spacers under the stem to raise them. The more you ride in the drops the more you'll get used to the position as well. Additional core work can also be beneficial. 

Alternatively, use the hoods to adopt an aero position by keeping your forearms straight and your elbows tucked in and at a 90-degree angle, this will reduce your frontal surface area. This position isn’t always as comfortable as riding in the drops, but it has the potential to be faster because your arms aren’t straight like they typically are in the drops.

- Video: Geraint Thomas finds marginal gains at the velodrome

Get narrow

Ethan Hayter of Team Ineos Grenadiers credit Alex Whitehead:SWpix.com_

Ethan Hayter of Team Ineos Grenadiers on his way to winning the 2021 UK national time trial championships credit Alex Whitehead:SWpix.com

The other way of reducing your frontal area is to have your hands and elbows as close together as possible. Look at any top time trial rider, like Ethan Hayter above, and you can see their elbows are close together, which pulls their shoulders down and together too, further reducing frontal area. It's not comfortable, but it's fast.

How do you know if any changes you make have reduced drag? In an ideal world, you’d be in a wind tunnel to validate the changes, or taking to a velodrome with a power meter. A power meter can be used out on the road, but controlling the variables is tricky. A simple roll down test doesn’t cost anything and can easily be repeated with just simple cycle computer required to track changes. This provides an easy way of trying different positions. 

Shave your legs

Racing cyclists are famous for their shaved legs, and as much ridicule as removing leg hair can generate, the science says that smooth legs are faster. Specialized aerodynamicists used their wind tunnel to show that shaved legs can save as much as 80 seconds over 40km. So when your other half asks why you’re shaving your legs, just tell them it’ll make you quicker. 

Tape up those air vents

All those vents in a cycling helmet are designed to suck in cooling air to prevent overheating on a warm ride, but if you cover them up, you have yourself an aero road helmet without spending any dosh. An aero helmet, with no vents, could save you as much as 40 seconds over a 40km course compared to a regular vented helmet, according to wind tunnel tests by Specialized.

Uvex EDAero Helmet - side.jpg

Take a leaf out of the British Cycling book, which in 2011 provided a helmet with a thin plastic covering, to smooth over the vents, for Mark Cavendish to ride, and win, the world championships. You could get a similar result with some cling film. It might lead to overheating in warmer weather, but what price for reduced drag?

Related: Should you buy an aero helmet?

Wheelsuck

That’s right, get on another cyclist's wheel and hide in their slipstream; it’s an easy way to reduce drag. Make sure to pick a cyclist that’s bigger than you, and you could reduce your drag by as much as 40%. You may be required to do a turn at the front, though. Editor-at-large John Stevenson likes to tell a story of riding the Dallaglio-Flintoff Cycle Slam charity ride led by former England rugby union captain Lawrence Dallaglio and showing Isabella Calthorpe (future wife of Richard Branson's son Sam) how to sit behind the big man so she could more easily keep up. At 6 ft 4 in (1.93 m) and 17 st 9 lb (112 kg) Dallaglio punches a sizable hole in the air. John swears this story is about the effectiveness of slipstreaming and not about him riding with the rich and famous.

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Get a motorbike to follow you closely

Okay, so we’re not actually advising you do this, but an interesting study showed that a close following motorbike can actually help to improve your drag. 

David worked on the road.cc tech team from 2012-2020. Previously he was editor of Bikemagic.com and before that staff writer at RCUK. He's a seasoned cyclist of all disciplines, from road to mountain biking, touring to cyclo-cross, he only wishes he had time to ride them all. He's mildly competitive, though he'll never admit it, and is a frequent road racer but is too lazy to do really well. He currently resides in the Cotswolds, and you can now find him over on his own YouTube channel David Arthur - Just Ride Bikes

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34 comments

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MozyAdam replied to BBB | 7 years ago
1 like

BBB wrote:

Jimmy Ray Will wrote:

I have no doubt that the Specialized data is reflective of reality. Ok the numbers may need further scrutiny, but I am certain that leg hair will have a significant effect on drag and aerodynamic efficiency.

 

As a marketer you can produce lots of data which "reflect reality" but is still irrelevant in a given context.

The whole idea is to present some meaningless numbers from a carefully choosen scenario typically at unrealistic speed hoping that those stupid numbers of watts or seconds will get stuck in peoples's heads and will  quoted in a press and on forums...

Calling time savings from shaving legs "significant" proves how effective the guys from Spesh are in brainwashing their customers.

The speeds and setups in a wind tunnel (+ 25mph) are compleely detatched from the real world of non-competing amateurs typically riding at 16-20mph.

 

 

 

 

You do realise that the 25mph(or usually 40kmph as the standard) is the airspeed not the ground speed.  Therefore it is quite likely for amateurs to get to such airspeeds in windy conditions and also, 25mph on the flat isn't that difficult to do in a bunch etc.

 

Just my tupence

Avatar
TheFatAndTheFurious replied to MozyAdam | 7 years ago
2 likes

MozyAdam wrote:

You do realise that the 25mph(or usually 40kmph as the standard) is the airspeed not the ground speed.  Therefore it is quite likely for amateurs to get to such airspeeds in windy conditions and also, 25mph on the flat isn't that difficult to do in a bunch etc.

True, but in a bunch, the bunch has done the work of getting the air to move forwards for you, so the airspeed in the bunch is much lower. This makes the aero-ness (new word) of your spangly wheels and tight clothing less important.

 

Avatar
hawkinspeter | 5 years ago
3 likes

Top tip - if you wear a squirrel suit, try shaving it first.

 

 

Avatar
xerxes replied to NoOneSpecial | 4 years ago
1 like

NoOneSpecial wrote:

PROPER GUIDE TO GETTING AERO FOR FREE

 

2) That thing at the front of the bike, yes above the forks, is called the stem. No doubt it is pointing towards the sky, with two inches of spacers underneath it. How about you turn it around so it is flat, remove the spacers and put is as low as possible?

3) That handlebar with the brakey/gear thingys attached. You could twist the handlebars so they are further down and the brake hoods do not resemble the position used by Joe Public in the 1970's.

4) Learn how to ride on drops (curly bits on the bar), properly: Elbows at 90 degrees to said setup above, chin should be close to stem, back will hurt, a lot. Also, imagine tri-bars on the tops as this is a very aero and actually comfortable with your elbows steering.

5) Learn to do sit-ups and crunches to hold said position for several hours on rollers or a turbo trainer. It will help. NB: Crunchie bars are not a training aid!

6) Check your saddle height: Can you touch the gound from the saddle? If so it is too low. Put the saddle back on the rails as far as it will go to get your back as flat as possible. Putting the nose of the saddle up by several degrees will sit you back further for a better aero postion

 

6a) If you haven't trained for a significant time to achieve points 2 to 6, ensure you have a chiropractor on speed dial.

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